The panade recipe in The Zuni Cafe Cookbook got here to my consideration when a buddy baked an attractive double-version of it in an over-sized AGA dutch oven and served it at a cocktail party years in the past. It was the show-stopping centerpiece of a meal flanked by an attractive winter inexperienced + chicory salad and gem-shaded glasses of wine. The mix of effervescent cubes of brothy bread and caramelized onions silkily merging with molten threads of cheese is knee-buckling. It’s the proper instance of a brief checklist of the only elements coming collectively into one thing far more than then sum of their elements.
I’ve baked variations of this panade within the years since, and it by no means disappoints. It’s endlessly adaptable, that means which you could add seasonal elements to fit your fancy. For instance, in my case, I do a vegetarian model by switching up the broth, and I like my onions on the caramelized facet of the spectrum. I’ll add no matter sautéed greens or roasted greens I’ve round. Judy additionally listed a variety of concepts and variations within the cookbook, so if in case you have it (and it’s best to!) you should definitely have a look at these for year-round inspiration. Her authentic had chard. I take advantage of a lot of scallions in mine. In brief, it’s a kind of IYKYK recipes. Molly Wizenberg knew what was up approach again in 2005 when she wrote in regards to the Judy panade recipe right here.
I’m going to dive in and reply quite a lot of questions right here which may pop up. The ingredient checklist for this panade couldn’t be easier, however the satan is within the particulars and navigating private preferences.
What Type of Bread for this Panade?
The brief reply is an effective, chewy artisan sourdough loaf. That mentioned, I will even argue that lots of that is private desire. In the event you bake sourdough at dwelling, by all means, use that. Both of these alternative will seemingly lead to a properly structured panade with good distinction between a number of the elements. The bread alternative is such an enormous deal on this recipe, each will affect your finish consequence immensely. I realized the laborious approach once I used a extra industrial sourdough loaf to make the panade one night time – a lot finer crumb, much less/no chewiness, and I’m guessing it was 100% all-purpose flour. The ensuing panade broke down too far, into an unstructured hunch. You need the bread to place up a combat and maintain a little bit of rigidity. Not go to mush altogether. The most effective model I’ve made was with a loaf of day-old do-it-yourself sourdough made with wild rice in it.
Crust or no Crust?
There are arguments for each. The panade right here retained the crust on the bread cubes. However I’ve achieved crustless variations earlier than. In the event you determine you’re keen on a brilliant oozy, silky panade, go crustless. In the event you like your panade to have extra construction, preserve your crust. Or go 50/50!
What’s the Greatest Broth for Panade?
We have a tendency to make use of no matter good-tasting broth now we have round or within the freezer (defrost). I really like an herby broth for this scallion and chive model, however in case you’re in a pinch seize a bouillon dice or two and go from there. Judy makes use of a hen broth in her recipe (which doesn’t work for vegetarians), however I’ve had nice outcomes with mushroom broth, and corn broth together with roasted cherry tomatoes and goat cheese within the panade. I’ve even used spicy bean broth.
Can I take advantage of a Totally different Cheeses on this Panade?
You may! I name for Gruyere, however point out within the headnote that considered one of my favourite variations ended up being a mix of Gruyere, Parmesan, and Pecorino cheeses. I favor barely assertive cheeses for the panade, with at the least a portion being a cheese that oozes when melted. For instance, I wouldn’t attain for a mozzarella – too gentle.
Can I Make this Forward of Time?
I usually make the caramelized onions forward of time. After which every other fillings that I’d be capable to pre-roast.
Soupy versus Dry-ish Panades
Once more, that is private desire. After you bake panade a couple of times you’ll begin to get a way of what type you like. You may go the soup-is route by including extra broth. Or lean into extra of a stuffing vibe with much less broth. The recipe beneath goals to hit the mark the place the panade is transitioning from a stuffing-like texture, into silkier magic, not-yet-in-soup territory.
This recipe is a warming, hearty, winter hotter. It seems so rustic, however the silkiness down within the depths is what’s extremely stunning. It’s the last word consolation dish that I hope you take pleasure in as a lot as I’ve through the years. Because of Jamie & Chanda & Bonni for our SF panade dinners, we miss them (and also you) a lot!